旗袍空间省量分配与侧缝形态关系

Relationship Between the Dart and Side Seam of Cheong-sam

为更加准确地定量分析旗袍空间省量分配和侧缝线的形态关系,以旗袍基本纸样为基础变化出5种不同的省量分配方案的纸样,制作成样衣并修正;对5种纸样进行了综合评价,将具有最好效果的纸样和石膏模型展开图覆合,分析了省量分配与侧缝形态的关系.结果显示:当衣身前、后片省量的分配比为0.5∶0.5时,旗袍的空间省量分配与侧缝线形态间的搭配关系比较合理,此时坯布样衣的侧缝线形态较好;对于选定的模特来说,衣身后片省量、后侧缝线处省量、前侧缝线处省量及衣身前片所收取省量的比例关系分别为3∶1∶1.5∶2.5.

In order to analyze the relationship between dart and side seam of Cheong-sam, five patterns with different dart distribution were designed based on the basic pattern of Cheong-sam. Then the patterns were made into sample garments and corrected. After correction, all the patterns were evaluated, so the best pattern was chosen and compared with the plaster cast and the relationship could be found. Results showed that when the proportion of front dart to back dart was 0.5：0.5, the relationship between darts and side seam of Cheong-sam was reasonable, and the side seam of the sample garments was better. To the chosen modle, the ratio of back dart, back side seam dart, front side seam dart and front dart was 3 ： 1 ： 1.5 ： 2.5.