摘要
针对翻驳领结构设计中的难点—倒伏量进行了研究,主要研究面料的性能与倒伏量的之间的关系。选取常用的9种面料,首先用KES-FB织物风格仪测试出面料的16项力学指标,运用SAS软件对数据进行主成分分析,使16个原始变量减少到4个变量,分别是织物的拉伸比功WT、拉伸回弹性RT、压缩回弹性RC及单位面积重量W;其次用这9种面料分别制作出领座高为2.5 cm,领面宽为3.5 cm的翻驳领,找出每种面料所制作的领子的最佳倒伏量;最后运用SAS软件对WT、RT、RC、W和倒伏量进行回归分析,找出了它们之间的定量关系式。
According to the looseness which is the difficult part of the lapel collar design, the relationship between the fabric properties and the looseness of lapel collar is studied and analyzed. Nine kinds of fabrics commonly used for suits are chose for experiment. First of all, sixteen mechanical properties are tested by KES-FB system. Principal component analysis is used with SAS software for minimizing the variables from 16 to 4. The 4 variables are WT, RT, RC and W of the fabric, Secondly, lapel collars are made with the 9 kinds of fabrics, the length of the collar stand is 2. 5cm, the width of the top collar is 3. 5cm. And the suitable looseness is found for each collar. The result is that WT, RT, RC and W have more influence on the looseness, and some quantitative relationship are found.
出处
《纺织科技进展》
CAS
2006年第5期89-92,共4页
Progress in Textile Science & Technology
关键词
面料性能
翻驳领
倒伏量
fabric properties
lapel collar
looseness
