涤纶针织面料服用性能测试及发展前景研究

A research on the wearability testing of polyester knitted fabric and its developing prospects

对具有一定代表性的161块不同的含涤针织面料进行了基本规格的测试,从编织结构、组织结构、平方米克重、厚度、含涤纶比例、用纱线密度和织物密度等几方面作了分析总结。从161块面料中选取含涤纶成分比较多的针织面料进行了常规服用性能(舒适性和外观性)的测试,其中舒适性指标主要包括回潮率、透气性、透湿性和毛细效应,外观性指标包括悬垂性、硬挺度、钩丝和抗起毛起球性、织物折痕恢复性以及抗静电性能。此外,为了进一步分析织物中纱线配置情况和纤维横、纵向外观及线密度等,还选取了一些针织面料进行电镜观察分析,并作了总结列表。依据测试数据,讨论了针织用涤纶长丝和短纤维在针织面料中的应用规格,证明了涤纶针织面料的服用性能已经有所改善。最后提出了涤纶纤维在针织上的应用前景和发展方向。

This paper tests and analyzes the basic specifications of 161 pieces of polyester-bearing and typical fabrics, including the knitting structure, stitch structure, weight per square meter, thickness, polyester content, yarn fineness, fabric density, and so on. And the conventional wearability(comfortability and appearance)of high polyester content of samples is also tested, in which the comfortability includes moisture regain, air permeability, moisture vapour transmission and capillary effect, and the appearance includes drapability, stiffness, snag, anti-pilling tendency, crease recovery and antistatic property. In addition, in order to analyze the yarn's orientation in the fabric, the vertical and horizontal appearance of yarns and yarn's linear density, some samples are selected for the scanning electron microscope observation, and the results are given in list. According to the tested data, the suitable specification of both polyester filament and staple fiber for knitted fabric is discussed, which proves that the wearability of polyester knitted fabrics has been improved to some degree. At last, this paper presents the application prospects and developing trend of polyester fiber in knitting technology.