唐代妇女常服及其分期特征

Women’s Common Dress in Tang Dynasty and Its Features at Different Stages

唐代妇女常服主要由:襦、裙、半袖和帔构成,在初唐、盛唐、中唐和晚唐各个时期显示出不同的特征。初唐妇女穿窄袖襦和长裙,显示出体态苗条。盛唐开始,妇女服饰显示出奢靡的风气,裙襦则向宽肥的趋势变化,这种趋势一直持续到唐代结束。初唐,半袖作外衣穿,盛唐以后,半袖穿在襦内。披帛在唐代应该称为帔或巾帔。帔的披挂方式有10多种。盛唐以后的帔也显示出比初唐更为宽大的趋势。

Women＇s common dress at Tang dynasty were mainly made up of Ru（襦）, skirt, half-sleeve（半袖） and Pei（帔） and showed different features at four stages of Tang dynasty. Women wore Ru with narrow sleeves and long skirt at the first stage of Tang dynasty, which showed slim shape, From the second stage, women＇s dress showed trend of luxury and Ru, skirt became broader. The trend lasted to the end of Tang dynasty. Half-sleeve had been worn as outer-wear at the first stage, but it had been worn under Ru from the second stage to the last stage. Pi-Bo（披帛）should be called Pei or Jin-Pei（巾帔） at Tang dynasty, and it had more than ten types to be used. Pei showed trend that became broader after the second stage.