中式袖结构设计研究

Study on pattern design of Chinese style sleeves

中式袖结构是袖型体系中不可或缺的重要组成部分,通过对中式连身袖这一民族性服饰元素作探索性研究,阐述了连身袖结构的特征、结构变化设计的构成原理和方法,归纳出连身袖结构造型的几种创新设计形式,介绍了斜肩式、斜袖式、插裆式、插肩式、衣片分割式连身袖及其应用规律。用现代服装设计理念和结构构成方法对传统中式连身袖结构进行改良,融入民族服饰的文化内涵,获得丰富多彩的创新设计,使古老的民族服饰文化服务于当今的时尚。

The Chinese style sleeve is an indispensable in the sleeve form system. This paper makes a preliminary study of Chinese one-piece sleeve, an element of nationality trappings, expounds its structural characteristics, the principle of varying its designs and related methods, sums up its several innovative designs and moldings, including sloping shoulder, sloping sleeve, raglan, and multi-piece styles along with their application rules. It uses the concept of modern garment design and the fabricating methods to modify the traditional Chinese style one-piece sleeve, combining into it the cultural intension of the nationality trappings and obtaining diversified innovative designs. Let the culture of ancient national costume be in the service of the modern fashion.