非标准姿势的上装原型设计

Block pattern of upper body for dynamic postures

服装运动功能性和适体性主要取决于加入服装中的放松量,即由普通梭织面料做出的服装与人体之间的空隙量.为了研究上装中对不同运动需求的放松量设计,本文采用石膏法测量在标准自然姿势和2个非标准姿势下不同人体部位的尺寸,并对获得的尺寸进行比较.3种原型板在石膏模型的基础上用COAT 4.1软件获得.研究发现,石膏法提供了一种用来精确测量不同运动状态下人体尺寸并进行原型板设计的有效方法,为在不同姿势下人体上装结构中放松量设计提供了依据.

The movement functionality and fit of clothing is largely decided by the incorporation of ease, the freedom between the body and the clothing made of conventional fabric. In order to study clothing, measurements between various anatomical landmarks have been taken using a plaster method so that the validity of the measurements might be assessed when dynamic postures are adopted. Three plaster casts have been taken from the real body to investigate alterations in body profile during the adoption of dynamic postures. Mechanical measurements of changes in the body surface dimensions have been compared with figures produced for the standard natural position and for two dynamic postures,which must be accommodated when designing high-performance garments. Three block patterns were created by COAT 4. 1 software on the basis of plaster casts. It was found that the plaster method offered a very efficient way to get exact measurements of the anatomy and block pattern for different movements, which were used to highlight the clothing ease requirements for upper body patterns in respect of different postures.