波浪在黄河三角洲形成中的作用

THE ROLE OF WAVE ACTION ON THE FORMATION OF YELLOW RIVER DELTA

本文应用１９８７年在黄河海港以北７ｍ水深处观测的９个月波浪资料进行统计研究，以揭示波浪在三角洲形成中的作用。研究表明：（１）波浪对水下三角洲海底泥沙的再悬浮力是比较大的，一年中约有１４４天时间，波浪使１２．５ｍ水深以内泥沙启动，５ｍ以内的泥沙发生位移。（２）波浪作用的沿岸相对输沙力，北岸向西、东岸向南，输沙力北岸大于东岸，且随着三角洲的前积淤进，这种差异在逐渐增大。（３）该区强浪向为ＮＥ，次强浪向为ＮＷ，波能的合成方向为４６°７′，波浪这一分布特性对向东北方向开口的尾闾河道排沙不利，对向北开口的尾闾河道次之，对向东开口的尾闾河道排沙最为有利。结合海区潮流分布格局，建议在人工整治时。

In order to understand the role of wave action on sediment transportation in forming process of the Yellow River Delta,we employ the wave data measured by Institute of Oceanology of Academia Sinica in 1987.The relation between mean height and period of waves is very obvious,and wave energy flux distribution in directions in the deltaic area is studied.Critical depths of bed sediment moving or being disturbed under various grades of wave are also computed.The result shows that,in the present wave condition,the bed sediment action frequency is 144 days per year,with sediment disturbed in region of less than 12 5m water depth and sediment moving in the region of less than 5m water depth.The major wave energy flux came from the northeast in 46 7° of direction. Combined with tidal current distribution pattern in the estuary,the factors mentioned above decide that the most stable course outlet direction of the Huanghe River is east.