改变硅油粒子大小和阳离子聚合物结构的比例以优化香波的表现

Maximizing the performance of shampoo with the appropriate matching of optimum silicone particle size and cationic polymer structure

阳离子羟乙基纤维素和硅油被广泛应用于调理香波中,目的是提供适当的调理并改善湿发和干发的梳理性和触感。研究不同粒子大小硅油与特定分子量阳离子羟乙基纤维素配合的作用,可以为配方师优化香波性能提供一个很好的基础。研究中,测试了两种黏度相同但粒子大小不同(0.5μ和20μ)的乳化硅油与多种阳离子羟乙基纤维素的作用。实验表明,与小粒子硅油配合,高分子量比相同阳离子化的低分子量阳离子羟乙基纤维素沉积更多的硅油。在欧洲未受损棕色头发上,在大粒子硅油上则观察到相反的趋势。这种奇特的现象可能是由于洗发过程不同沉积机理存在竞争的结果。利用不同类型头发的调理性能和电子扫描显微镜对头发表面的分析,对沉积的差异作进一步的研究。

Cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose （HEC） and silicone are widely used in conditioning shampoos for the purpose of providing the appropriate conditioning and thus imparting manageability and wellness to both wet and dry hair. Understanding the interaction of different particle size silicone in combination with specific cationic HEC molecular weights would provide a good foundation for formulators to optimize their shampoo performance. In this study, two silicone emulsions with the same internal viscosity but different particle sizes, 0.5 μ and 20μ, were tested with several cationic HEC polymers. Findings have shown the higher molecular weight cationic HEC polymer in combination with smaller particle size silicone of constant charge density deposits more silicone onto European virgin brown hair than that with lower molecular weight cationic HEC polymer. The opposite trend was observed with the larger particle size silicone. This surprising effect might possibly be due to the competition of different deposition mechanisms existing during the shampooing process. Conditioning performance on different types of hair and hair surface analysis by scanning electron microscope were employed to investigate further the deposition differences.