横机羊毛衫放码工艺方法

Research on the grading technology of knitted sweater

为提高横机羊毛衫放码工艺计算水平,改善横机羊毛衫放码理论缺乏状况,将非成型服装放码理论应用于横机羊毛衫放码,提出将服装点位移放码方法与横机羊毛衫工艺计算相结合进行横机羊毛衫放码工艺计算的方法,研究了羊毛衫放码时各部位工艺点相对于坐标轴的纵、横向坐标位移量,指出服装放码原理中各尺码工艺点斜线连线尽量保持平行的相似形原理在横机羊毛衫收挂肩和收肩放码计算中的应用,并以男装V领西装肩背心的放码工艺计算为例说明该放码工艺方法的计算过程。

A means of grading technology of knitted sweater which combined the point-grading method of the apparel pattern grading with the calculating technology of knitted sweater is proposed to improve the grading technology and fill the vacuum of grading theory of knitted sweater by applying the grading theory of non- shape garment to knitted sweater. The way for the determination of the vertical and transversal coordinate difference on the moving of the key point of the knitted sweater is studied. The principle of the line segment of each size keeping parallel is explained by applying it to the grading of the narrowing height of armhole and shoulder slant. An example of the grading of men＇s V neck curve armhole sleeveless knitted sweater is provided to explain the means of grading technology of knitted sweater.