摘要
本文从地貌动力学角度综述了沙坝时空变化、实地观测技术、形成机制和海滩状态,以及沙坝分类研究的成果。文中从三个方面介绍了沙坝的成因:(1)破波点一沙坝过程;(2)长周期驻立边缘波;(3)波流联合输沙。指出今后研究的重点和方向是探求沙坝的运动和形态特征与近岸环流模式的关系,以及与沙坝时空变化相联系的海滩过程。海滩沙坝地貌动力学的研究有赖于运用先进的技术和长期的实地观测。
This review presents a morphodynanlics summary of the achievements of re search into the spatial and temperal variability of sand bars, field observation techniques, formation mechanisms and classification of beach states ard bars. The generation mechanisms of sand bars are introduced in three aspects: (1) breakpoint bar process; (2) long standing edge wave; (3) sediment transport by coupling of waves and currents. It is pointed out that exploring the relationship between the feature of movement and structure of sand bars and the nearshore current model, and the associated process research of sandy beach are the key points and the direction in the future research , which depend on advanced tech niques and long-term field observation.
出处
《海洋通报》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
1997年第3期81-87,共7页
Marine Science Bulletin