日本文化女装新原型构成要素与造型的关系

Relationship of constitute element and silhouette about the Japanese New Cultural Women′s Wear Block

探求日本文化女装新原型的构成要素与造型的关系,为新原型的应用提供一定的理论依据。在新原型中,胸省设在袖窿弧线上,使得胸围线、腰围线变成水平,面料丝缕顺直,造型顺畅,整体结构构成箱型特征。较之旧原型,新原型的突出修订在于胸部造型的调整;同时各部位制图公式的修订考虑了与胸围的关联性,当胸围发生变化时,各部位尺寸的变化更趋于合理;减少了常数的设定等。

The object of this research is to provide certain theoretic reference for the application of the New Block. In the New Blocks, the bust dart is tailed on the camber of the armhole, which makes bust line and waist line become level, fabric gentle and block smooth, the whole structure exhibits box type. Comparing with the old block, the New Block adjusts the bust forming, considers the relation in amending the drafting formula when the bust measure is changed, the dimension of each part becomes more reasonable, and decreases the constant setting.