牛仔服的加工

The processing of Denim fabrics

本文叙述了牛仔服发展的历史和加工的方法．其中特别提到了亨斯迈公司在国外使用LyosperseSPD涂料连续染色和生物酶抛光相结合的工艺。该方法与传统的经纱染色，然后色织的方法相比较，LyosperseSPD方法具有可根据市场要求既灵活又能及时供货而且手感柔软节约能源，减少废水，节约成本等优点。此外本文也谈到了以活性染料NovacronC代替传统的靛蓝或硫化蓝的经纱染色和活性染料NovacronH在牛仔服中成衣染色。

The present article has deseribed the development history and background of denim fabrics. Huntsman has successfully developed the continuous dyeing of Denim fabrics by using Lyosperse SPD （formerly known as Irgaphor SPD） ,and the characteristic wash-out look is achived by bio-polishing with enzymes in comparing with the conventional denim processing （warp dyeing）, the leyosperse SPD process is more flexible, ready made-up together with saving energy, being more cost effective, environmental friendly, and having softer handle than conventional pigment universal dyeing. In addition, this article has also described Novacron C,one of Huntsmen bifunctional reactive dyes, being used as a substitute for traditional Indigo warp dyeing, and Novacron H in Denim garment ones.