透明护肤乳液的制备和研究

Preparation and Study of Clear Lotion

为制备低刺激性透明护肤乳液,选用磷酸酯表面活性剂、醇醚酯、聚甘油酯为乳化剂,甘油和1,3-丁二醇为助乳化剂,辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、硅油等为油相,绘制伪三元相图优化配方并考察添加剂和配制工艺对配方的影响。实验发现醇醚磷酸酯、醇醚酯和聚甘油酯的复配,水溶性油酯、三甲基甘氨酸的添加均可降低配方中乳化剂整体用量;后中和工艺可以改善微乳对温度的敏感性;聚季铵盐有助于配方的肤感调节。

To prepare mieroemulsion with low irritation, phosphate, ceteareth and stearate,polyglyceryl esters were used as emulsifiers, glycerin BP and 1,3-butylene glycol as coemulsifiers, caprylic/capric triglyceride, silicone etc. as oil phase. Pseudotemary phase diagram were used to optimize the formulation. Influence of additives and manufacturing process were studied. Results show that phosphate, ceteareth and stearate with polyglyceryl esters as emulsifiers, hydrophilie oil or trimethyl glycine is added, each can reduce the amount of the emulsifiers. The mieroemulsion can be prepared in a wide range of temperature by adjusting pH value of microemulsion. Polyquaternium can help to adjust skin feeling.