竹纤氨/T-400双弹织物的染整加工

Dyeing and finishing of double elastic fabric with bamboo-polyurethane core spun yarn and T-400 fiber

分析了竹粘胶纤维、氨纶纤维和T-400弹性纤维的性能,讨论了竹纤氨/T-400双弹织物的染整加工工艺和生产注意事项,包括烧毛、冷轧堆前处理、定形、丝光、染色和后整理工序。结合生产实践,前处理采用短流程低碱冷轧堆工艺;采用155℃×30 s的定形工艺,以稳定纬向尺寸稳定性,同时减少T-400纤维的弹性和强力损伤;采用分散/活性染色工艺,分散染色温度宜控制在120℃,染浴中加入高温匀染剂和浴中柔软剂,以利于提高匀染性,防止粘胶纤维擦伤;选用亲水性柔软剂后整理,要求改善织物手感的同时,不损伤其吸湿快干性能。

The properties of bamboo fiber, polyurethane fiber and T- 400 elastic fiber were introduced. The dyeing and finishing process of double elastic fabric with bamboo-polyurethane core spun yarn and T- 400 fiber and its points to attention were analyzed and discussed, concerning singeing, cold pad-batch pretreatment, setting, mercerizing, dyeing and finishing. Based on practice, the optimal processes were adopted as follows： shortened cold pad-batch pretreatment with low alkali, setting 30 s at 155 ℃ so as to stable the dimension in weft, and less damage to the elasticity and strength of T- 400 fiber. Dyeing temperature should be controlled at 120 ℃ during disperse/reactive dyeing, high-temperature leveling agent and softening agent should be used in dye bath for a increase of leveling property and prevention of viscose fiber damage by friction. Hydrophilic softening agent should be selected during finishing for better fabric handle and non-damage to the moisture absorbent and dry fast property.