波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型

Numerical modeling of multi-directional random wave transformation in wave-current coexisting water areas

基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型,模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应,应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散,采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布,考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好,比较分析表明,所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大,可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。

Based upon the wave action balance equation, a numerical predicting model is developed for multi-directional random wave transformation in the wave-current coexisting field, in which the diffraction effect and the Doppler shift of dispersion relation are taken into account. current and depth limited wave A bore based formulation is used to parameterize the energy dissipation associated with coupled breaking. The governing equation is discretized by a forward-marching first order upwind finite difference method. The wave height distribution of uni-and multi-directional incident random waves are calculated with and without considering the nearshore currents effect. Results show that the predictions considering the current effect produce a preferable fit to the experimental data and perform well in simulating the wave height accretion due to rip currents. The mutual model-data comparisons reveal that the present model is applicable for the random waves propagating in wave-current coexisting water areas.