桑蚕丝针织物盐缩工艺探讨

Study on the process of calcium nitrate modifying of mulberry silk knitted fabrics

研究桑蚕丝针织物在不同的Ca(NO3)2溶液质量分数、温度、时间条件下的盐缩效果。通过正交试验,对不同条件处理前后织物风格外观参数的改变进行比较,得出适宜的盐缩工艺条件。结果表明:在相同的盐缩条件下,单面平针织物的盐缩效果明显优于双面桑蚕丝织物;盐缩率随丝线捻度的增大而减小。适宜的盐缩条件有3种组合:Ca(NO3)2溶液质量分数46.8%、温度80℃、时间8 min,Ca(NO3)2溶液质量分数46.8%、温度65℃、时间12 min,Ca(NO3)2溶液质量分数45.2%、温度80℃、时间5 min,此时的盐缩效果明显,并且对织物的损伤较小。

The calcium nitrate modifying effect of silk knitted fabrics which are treated by Ca（ NO3 ）2 solution at different experiment conditions（temperature or time or reagent concentration） is studied. By using orthogonal experiment, the performance parameters of fabrics appearance before and after the process of calcium nitrate modifying are compared, and better processes of salt shrinkage are determined. The results show that the calcium nitrate modifying effects of single-side fabric are superior to double-sided fabric remarkably; the ratio of salt shrinkage decreases with the enhancement of twist ; 3 preferable conditions of calcium nitrate modifying are： （46.8%, 80 ℃, 8 min）, （46.8%, 65 ℃, 12 min）, and（45.2%, 80 ℃, 5 min）under which the effects of calcium nitrate modifying are obvious with less damage to the fabric.