晚清民国时期汉族女裙的西化

Westernization of Han nationality′s skirt during the period from the late Qing dynasty to the Republic of China

在了解清代女裙形制的基础上,对比分析了19世纪末至20世纪30年代间的部分传世实物,认为在西式女裙取代传统汉族女裙的过程中,曾出现过一种中西合璧的裙式,而这种独特的裙式可被看作是传统汉族女裙的西化产物。女裙西化的关键是由"围系"到"套穿"的转变。随之而变的还有传统的"裙腰""裙门"等结构。留存至今的此类中西合璧式女裙实物较少,其应用时间及人群可能并不宽泛,但仍不失为近代女裙发展演变过程中的一个重要阶段。

After investigating and understanding the configuration of Qing style skirt, this paper made a comparison and analysis of part of physical objects handed down from the late of 19th century to 1930＇s. It is believed that the skirt style combining Chinese and western had appeared before the western style skirt took the place of Chinese traditional skirt. The key point of occidentalized process is skirt＇s transformation from Piece Shape to Pail Shape, accompanied by such changes as Yoke and Placket Hole. Although today it is not easy to find the physical objects of the skirt style combining Chinese and western, its use time may not be long, and its use may not be popular, this period is an important phase in the development of modem skirt.