植物染料HT-CT对毛织物染色性能及其工艺的研究

Dyeing properties and process of plant dye HT-CT to wool fabrics

研究了HT-CT色素的耐沸水稳定性、耐酸碱稳定性,染色方法以及各染色工艺参数对染色毛织物颜色特征值、色牢度的影响。结果表明:HT-CT色素在100℃沸水中稳定;在酸性至中性条件下稳定,而在碱性条件下颜色增深;染毛织物适宜采用铝离子后媒染色方法,主要工艺参数为:浴比1∶25,染料植物用量50%(owf),染色温度100℃,染浴pH值6,铝媒染剂用量5%;HT-CT染色毛织物的耐洗色牢度、耐汗渍色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度均较好,达到国家标准3级以上。

In this paper, the dyeing properties （stability to boiling water, to acid and alkali）, method and the effect of dyeing processes on characteristic values and fastness properties of the dyed wool fabric color are investigated. The investigation shows： ①the coloring matters extracted from HT-CT are stable in 100 ℃ boiling water, it is also stable in acid and middle conditions, but it is not stable in alkali condition; ②the method of Al after-mordant is appropriate to dye wool fabrics with HT-CT dye and its dyeing conditions are as follows： liquor ratio 1：25, amount of dye plant 50% （owf）, dyeing temperature 100℃, pH value 6 and amount of Al mordant 5% ; ③the color fastnesses of the dyed wool fabrics to water washing, perspiration and rubbing are all above 3 grade.