真丝复合丝牛仔的生化洗整理研究

STUDIED ON BIOCHEMICAL WASK FINISHING OF SILK COVERED YARN DENIM

真丝复合丝牛仔是牛仔面料中的高档产品。它以棉纱为芯，桑蚕丝包复在芯线外层，形成独特的真丝复合丝新材料。本文以织物的失重率、断裂强力、柔软性、同色性等为考查指标，通过对影响中性纤维素酶及中性蛋白酶整理真丝复合丝牛仔的各种因素的研究，优化了一步法生化洗真丝复合丝牛仔的整理工艺，探讨了酶与蚕丝及棉纤维的反应机理，并测试了扫描电镜及考查了整理后真丝复合丝牛仔面料的服用性能。

Silk covered yarn denim is a top grade denim with cotton yarn as the corn thread covered with mulbery silk.This paper studied various factors which neutral protease and cellulose enzyme finished silk covered yarn denim.By means of analysis the assess indexes,such as the deweighting,the breaking strength,the soft and the union dyed performance,etc got the optimum finishing conditions of one step process. The mechanism of enzyme softening and deweighting the silk covered yarn denim silk and cotton fabric were studied,and tested the treated silk overed yarn denim to get the performance in wear.