两种滩角成因假说的实证分析

Comparing two dominating hypotheses about beach cusp formation with measured data

驻立边缘波假说和自组织机制假说是最为广泛接受的两种解释滩角成因的假说。基于在粤东后江湾实测的碎波带动力要素和滩角数据,对这两种假说的有效性进行了分析。结果表明这两种假说都能比较有效地解释滩角的成因,但都存在显著的缺点。认为更加系统、高密度和高精度的观测是下一步研究的方向。

Standing edge wave theory and self organized theory are the most dominating hypotheses to explain the beach cusp formation. Based on the surf zone dynamic data and beach cusp spacing measured at the Houjiang Bay of eastern Guangdong provice, a comparison is carried out to test the validity of the two hypotheses. The results show that though both hypotheses can explain the beach cusp formation to a certain extent, there are notable shortcomings. More systemic observations with high-frequency and high-precision are suggested for further research.