上衣原型与成衣纸样放码放缩量的应用

Grading application in tops patterns and its allowance

针对目前服装小批量、多品种的生产特点和高科技信息化生产,成衣纸样放码是服装工业生产中的瓶颈环节,也是工业样板设计过程中重要的技术环节。通过对上衣原型放码放缩量的分析,以人体黄金分割为比例,推算出上衣原型纸样各放码点的最佳数值分配,应用于成衣生产纸样放码,从而找出女装衬衫纸样在放码时各放码点的最佳放缩量;进一步探讨服装CAD放码规则中各点最佳输入值,正确合理地分配数值,由纸样制作出来的"型"就不会走样。

Modern garment production is characterized by small lot and more varieties using high-tech information technology. However, pattern grading, a key in the commercial production, has become a bottleneck in pattern design of the garment production. This paper analysed the tops patterns with gold partition figure, studied the blocks fitting measurement, and applied the data into pattern grading. Meanwhile this paper tried to discuss the grading rules in garment CAD designing. In pattern making, it will provide a good structure of shape unless there is grading fault.