女裙斜裁模型及其应用

Bias cut of dress models and its application examples

运用45°服装斜裁的方法,对平面裁剪中的女裙直裁原型进行三围转移,从而建立女裙斜裁模型。首先进行腰围转移,包括臀腰差转移和腰口起翘转移,其规格尺寸必须保持转移前后相等;其次进行臀围转移,则斜裁裙装中的臀围和原型中的臀围尺寸需相等或接近,且在同一水平线上;再次对裙摆围转移,需满足斜裁裙装中的裙摆围和原型中的裙摆围尺寸接近,且在同一水平线上。准确地进行腰围、臀围和裙摆围的三围斜向转移,是女裙斜裁模型建立以及款式设计过程中的重点研究内容。结合对二片型斜裙应用实例的分析,认为多数女裙斜裁款式的变化集中反映在裙片斜向分割数量多少以及裙摆造型设计上。

Applying 45°bias cut to shift the three statistics of original models of plane cut dresses,the bias cut dress models can be established.First,the waistline is shifted,including the shift of hip and waist discrepancy as well as the shift of placket hold.Their sizes must be kept equal to those before the shift.Second,the hip length is shifted so that the hip length of the bias cut is equal or close to that of the original models and on the same level.Third,the skirt line is shifted so that the skirt line of the bias cut is close to that of the original models on the same level.To make an accurate shift of the waistline,the hip length and the skirt line is the key research content of bias cut dress models.By analyzing the examples of applied two-piece bias cut dresses,most variations of designs of the bias cut dresses are reflected in the pieces of bias material and the skirt line molding choices.