基于Boussinesq方程的近岸波流统一模型

Model for both nearshore waves and wave-induced currents based on Boussinesq equation

用统一的理论正确描述近岸海域内不同尺度的水动力学现象是海岸水动力学研究的一个难题。本文通过将一种简单的波浪破碎模型引入到Boussinesq方程,建立了能够统一描述近岸水波和波生流的数学模型。将数学模型应用于计算浅滩上的波浪变形以及均一斜坡上平行于海岸的沙坝缺口附近的波生流,得到了良好的结果。

Boussinesq equations have been generalized to formulate not only the nearshore waves but also the wave-induced currents. The currents are the phase average of the fluid velocity under the action of the wave. A simple but effective model has been introduced to represent the energy dissipation associated with wave breaking. The mathematical model is applied to the computation of wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal and also of wave-induced current over a plane beach with two longshore bars separated by a rip channel. Numerical results show satisfactory agreement with available experimental data.