林语堂服饰文化观探微

Resarch on Lin Yu-tang′s clothing and apparels

对林语堂文集中的服饰观进行梳理,探讨林语堂矛盾服饰观的文化原因.林语堂钟情中装的表层原因在于从伦理、美感、卫生方面中装符合人性,随意平和、衣人合一;厌恶西服的深层因素源于西服作为象征符号所包含的殖民主义文化逻辑,这种态度与林语堂爱国主义思想情感息息相通.通过分析得出中西合璧的服饰文化观,支撑林语堂服饰观的核心内容是人文主义思想.

Through systematizing clothing and apparels of Lin Yu-tang anthology, cultural reason for contradictive clothing and apparels is discussed. The superficial reason for Lin Yu-tang＇s deep love of the Chinese dress is that the Chinese dress is comfortable,in harmony with Chinese nature and taste in the aspect of ethics,aesthetic judgment and hygiene. The deep reason why Lin Yu-tang disliked western style clothes lies in that the western style clothes symbolize robbery culture of colonialism,which has much to do with Lin Yu-tangrs patriotic thoughts and feelings. From the analysis, a conclusion can be made that Lin Yu-tang held a view of combining Chinese clothing and apparels with the west, with the humanism as the essence of his clothing and apparels.