变分原理在波浪理论研究中的应用

Variation Principle and Its Application in the Study of Wave Theories

研究波浪在传播过程中由于缓变地形所引起的折射和绕射现象以及在水流影响下波浪的变形,是海岸动力学中一个十分有意义的课题.本文利用变分原理推导了一、二阶Stokes波的方程,并给出在波浪和水流共同作用下结合波浪折射和绕射的波动方程.其结果与已有的理论结果完全一致.

The study of the wave diffraction and refraction when waves traveling over a slowly varying topography and the deflection of waves encountering with current is a very interesting topic in the coastal evolution processes. This paper has derived the stokes 1st order and 2nd order wave formulations, as well as the wave equation governing the wave refraction, diffraction and interaction with current by means of the variation principle. All results are in good agreement with those from well-known wave theoreies.