香云纱的加工工艺及其生态性

Ecological manufacture of Gambiered Guangdong Silk

简要介绍了香云纱的加工工艺,并对其生态性进行评析。香云纱工艺是一种兼有染色与涂层效果的加工过程,它以野生植物薯莨的块茎为染料,经过反复浸染和曝晒,绸面形成棕色涂层;再经涂覆特定的泥糊,其涂层变为黑色,制得成品。检测结果表明,香云纱的水萃取液pH值、色牢度、气味、重金属含量(除Pb外)等指标符合GB/T 18885—2002生态纺织品技术要求。铅含量超标的问题有待于进一步研究。香云纱工艺的主要能源是阳光,加工中没有合成染料及化学助剂的介入,也没有环境污染物的排放。因此堪称环保的染色、涂层技术。

production process of Gambiered Guangdong silk was introduced,and its ecology was analysed. The dyestuff of Gambiered Guangdong silk is dye yam, a kind of gambler, so it gets the name of Gambiered Guangdong silk. The Gambiered Guangdong silk is produced by hand according to the following process flow： dipping in the aqueous solution of dye yam→insolating under the burning sun →（ repeat the dipping and insolating for ten times） →coating front side with mud →washing →drying. After the whole flow, the surface of fabric formed a black coat, while the backside was brown. The production of Gambiered Guangdong silk takes the solar as energy, and there is neither chemicals intervention, nor discharges of environmental pollutant in the whole flow, even the dreg of the dye yam was used as the fuel, the process was energy-saving and environmental friendly. Moreover, the test results of pH of the aqueous extract, heaw metal content, color fastness, and odor show that it is a kind of safe fabric. So the Gambiered Guangdong silk process can be rated as an excellent ecological dyeing and coating technology.