驳领结构设计

Structure design of the lapels

通过对驳领结构设计原理和造型规律的研究,结合实践案例验证,阐述驳领结构设计的方法。以驳领基本结构为基础,沿翻折线翻折纸样直观绘制领驳造型;利用剪切展开后领圈与领宽矩形处理领底弧线与领子外缘止口线的松余量关系。研究表明这种方法适用于各种驳领款式变化,应用灵活,简单易学,实用性强。其特点是摒弃了数学计算和经验性,使领底弧线和外缘轮廓线可随领子造型的改变而变化,且能与领子翻折效果相吻合,结构合理,成功率高。

Through analyzing the principle of structure design and providing with practical cases,the paper expounds the method of the notched structure.With the basic lapels′structure design as foundation,the collar type is drawn up when viewing directly and the paper is folded along the back line,disposing of the grading allowance relations between the collar out selvage and the neckline.The research indicates that this method is suitable for style changes of each kind of the lapels′design,flexible in application,easy to learn,and very practical.Being characterized by abandoning the mathematical computation and the experientialism,it makes possible that the collar bottom line and its outer selvage profile vary with moldings,and matches with the collar folding perfectly.It is reasonable in structure and offers high percentage of successful design.