织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系

Relationship of the Tensile Properties between Yarns in the Worsted Fabric and Yarns before Weaving

为了根据织造前纱线的拉伸性能和织造、后整理工艺预测织物的拉伸性能,研究了织造和染整加工前后精梳毛纱拉伸性能的关系,获得了三方面的结论:(1)经常规后整理加工的各种精梳毛织物中经纱的伸长变形能力没有显著差异,但其纬纱的伸长变形能力与织造和染整工艺有关。(2)坯布染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线在伸长率方向扩大一定倍数以后与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。纱线染色情况下织造前纱线的伸长变形曲线的某一部分与织物中纱线的伸长变形曲线相当。(3)后整理加工中的经向张力和拉幅张力对精梳毛织物中纱线的伸长变形能力的影响特别大。树脂整理有降低织物变形特别是变形回复能力的作用。

In order to predict the tensile property of fabrics, the relationship of the tensile properties between the yarns in the worsted fabric and those yarns before weaving is examined. The following results are obtained. (1) There are no remarkable differences in the tensile properties of various warp yarns in fabrics if the fabrics are finished with the general process, but the tensile property of weft yarns relates to the weaving and finishing process. (2) In case of the grey dyeing, if the stress-strain curve of the yarn before weaving is expanded in the strain direction, it will be similar to the stress-strain curve of the yarn in the fabric. In case of the yarn dyeing, some part of the stress-strain curve of the yarn before weaving is similar to the curve of the yarn in the fabric. (3) The tension in the warp or weft direction during the finishing process strongly affects the tensile property of worsted fabrics. The resin finishing reduces the deformation and tensile resilience of fabrics.