超薄丝毛交织花呢的设计与性能对比

Design and property compare of mixed ultrathin mousseline delaine of mova silk and wool

介绍了经纱采用拉细丝光澳毛,纬纱采用绢纱与拉细羊毛纱交替排列,交织而成的5个系列超薄花呢产品的规格设计与生产要点,对比分析系列产品的力学性能、外观特征。超薄丝毛交织产品由于毛和绢纱做纬纱的不同排列,形成产品含绢丝量的变化,对产品性能影响增大。含绢丝量越大光泽越好,撕破、顶破性能和悬垂性能越强,透气性能、抗折皱性能和耐磨性能越差。同时也指出在开发生产此类产品中存在的一些问题。

Specification design and production are introduced of 5 series of mixed uhrathin mousseline delaine with the warp of Austrilian wool blended with mercerized fine-drawn wool, the weft alternated with different ratio between mova silk and the yarn as the warp. By testing and comparative analysis of physical and mechanical properties, appearance of the fabric with different mova silk content, it is concluded that the larger the proportion of mova silk, the better the fabric luster, the tearing and the drapability and bursting strength, but the worse air permeability, crease resistance and abrasion resistance. In addition, some problems arised in the development and production of the products are brought forward.