摘要
以不规则波在缓变地形和缓变流场水域的折射-绕射理论以及风浪的成长、衰减理论为基础，得到近岸区不规则波成长模型。结合近岸波浪特性和海洋工程应用的实际情况，建立综合考虑海岸、折射、白浪、底摩擦、流、风和非线性作用诸因素的近岸不规则波数值计算模型。该模型具有二维波谱特性及实用性。文章力图使模式更合理地反映近岸波浪的传播、成长和衰减规律，而整个计算工作量则较小，可在微型电子计算机上得以实现。
Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular wave in the waters of slowly changed current and depth, and the generation-dissipation theory of wind Wave, a model for irregular wave generation in coastal sea area is developed. In the light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering application, a practical mathematical model with directional spectra for irregular wave generation is presented in coastal sea area. Coast effect refraction, whitecapping, bottom friction,current, wind and nonlinear action are considered in this model. The model tries to decrease the CPU time of computation in order to be realized in personal computer while more reasonably reflecting the propagation, generation and dissipation of wind waves in coastal sea area.
出处
《热带海洋》
CSCD
1998年第1期9-16,共8页
关键词
不规则波
近岸区
数学模型
成长模型
波浪
irregular wave, generation and dissipation, nonlinear action, coastal sea area, mathematical model
