纯棉弹力变经密绉织物的开发

Development of Warp Density-varied and Elastic Cotton Crepe Fabric

探讨设计纯棉弹力绉织物时通过改变钢筘穿入数来改变织物的经密,通过纬纱弹力纱与非弹力纱间隔排列织制绉布的生产工艺及各工序工艺控制要点。在选择原纱时,棉精梳纱的强力、结杂、条干等指标要达到乌斯特2001公报5%水平。整经工序采用两种经轴,浆纱时要优选浆料配方,合理配置上浆工艺;织造工序要采用"中后梁、小张力、早开口"的上机工艺,织造时大小轴张力配合要适宜,可使台时经向断头控制在0.25根以下,台时纬向断头控制在4.5根,织机效率达86.6%以上,下机一等品率为92.5%。

The production technology and process key points of weaving pure cotton elastic crepe fabric were discussed including changing warp density through adjusting the warps per reed, arranging elastic weft and non-elastic weft at intervals in designing process. In choosing raw yarn,indexes of cotton combed yarn should reach USTER 2001 5% level including strength, impurity, yarn evenness et al. Double beams were adopted in warping. Sizing instruction should be optimized and sizing processing should be set properly. In weaving process, processing of middle back beam weaker tension earlier shedding and proper loom tension were adopted which can keep the number of broken warp less than 2.5 per loom per hour and the number of broken weft less than 4.5 per loom per hour. Loom efficiency could reach above 86.6% and first grade percentage before cloth repairing could reach 92.5%.