天然染料染丝时铝离子前媒染工艺的探讨

Investigation of the Aluminum Ion Pre-Mordant Processes During Silk Fabric Dyeing with Natural Dyes

将铝离子前媒染后的丝织物,采用天然染料胭脂虫酸染色,以K/S、C*值分别表征染色丝织物的表观得色量、鲜艳度,对媒染剂用量、温度、时间3个因素进行了单因素实验,得到了铝离子前媒处理的最佳工艺参数:用量2m mol/L,温度90℃,时间20min。媒染使染色织物获得了较好色牢度;测定铝媒染后丝织物的能谱,显示织物上含有铝离子;进一步测定铝离子与丝肽粉(丝织物的模拟物)、胭脂虫酸形成配合物前后的红外光谱,显示丝肽中的-NH2、酚羟基、羧基,胭脂虫酸分子中葡萄糖剩基上环状的C-O-C、醌结构中的羧基、酚羟基等基团参与了与铝离子的配合反应。

Silk fabrics that had been treated by the aluminum ions were dyed with natural carmine acid. Color yield and brightness of the dyed fabrics were characterized by the K/S and C＊ values. The experiments of three single factors, the mordant consumption, the dyeing temperature and the dyeing time were carried out and the optimal processing parameters were obtained, e.g. the mordant consumption 2m mol/L, the dyeing time 20 min and the dyeing temperature 90℃. Better color fastness of the fabrics cab be achieved with the mordant dyeing. The energy spectrogram test of the silk fabrics shows that there existed aluminum ions on the fabric. Furthermore, the infrared spectrum tests of the aluminum ions before and after the reaction with the silk peptide powder （simulating the silk） and carmine acid show that NH2 , the phenol OH, carboxylic groups in the silk peptide powder, cyclic C -O-C, carboxylic groups, phenol OH in the quinine structures are all involved in the reaction with aluminum ions.