PTT/PET双组分长丝针织物布面不匀的成因分析

Analysis of surface unevenness of knitted fabrics made with PTT/PET bi-component filaments

为了研究PTT/PET双组分长丝针织物布面不匀的问题,利用PTT/PET双组分长丝在无缝针织机上进行试织,通过无缝针织工艺的调整无法消除PTT/PET针织物布面这种随机性"条阴状不匀",对PTT/PET双组分长丝结构及模拟织物整理工艺处理后的长丝结构进行研究,探明了该类长丝"条阴状不匀"的成因,发现其左右螺旋且不断翻转的三维卷曲是布面"随机性条阴状不匀"的形成根源;通过改进纺丝工艺制得了新型PTT/PET双组分丝,从根本上消除了该类针织物布面的"随机性条阴状不匀",且其织物布面均匀美观。

To study the unevenness on the surface of FIqTPET plain knitted fabric, seamless knitted fabrics with FIDPET were woven on trial basis. The ＂random strip unevenness＂ which couldn＇t be eliminated by technical adjustments on the surface of IriS/PET plain fabrics was analyzed by studying the original configuration of PTD/PET and the configuration of PTT/PET after simulated finishing process. It was found that the three-dimensional endless spiral crimps of PTT/PET is the cause of ＂random strip unevenness＂. Based on this, a new kind of PTT/PET filaments was made by improving the spinning process. The ＂random strip unevenness＂ was disappeared on the surface of knitted fabric made of the new PTT/PET filaments, and it appears uniform and aesthetic.