金代女真族服饰文化的涵化

Acculturation of Jurchen clothing culture in Jin Dynasty

以史料和考古发现为依据,研究金代女真族服饰文化涵化的不同特征阶段、产生因素和反应态度。金代女真族服饰文化涵化可以概括为推行汉化;实现舆服制度;由简到奢;舆服制度的完善;服饰等级观念确立,提倡节约、淳朴、质直的旧风;限制汉化,强制实施女真化等特征阶段。促进服饰文化涵化产生有政治、经济、意识形态等方面的因素,而面对服饰文化涵化有接受、适应和抗拒等反应态度。

Based on the historical records and the files of archaeological discovery, the present paper studies the acculturation of Jurchen clothing culture in Jin Dynasty in different characteristic phases, the factors arose from and the attitude people took. It summarizes that the acculturation of Jurehen clothing culture has different characteristic phases as follows： carrying out sinicization, fmlning the sedan chair clothing system, the fashion being from simplicity to luxury, improving the sedan chair clothing system and emerging of clothing hierarchical system, calling for the fore ancestor＇s style which is thrifty and unvarnished, stopping the sinieization and retaining the Jurehen＇s clothing cultural tradition. The factors which promote the acculturation of Juiehen clothing culture include political, economic, ideological aspects and so on. People＇s attitude towards the acculturation of Jurchen clothing culture included adoption, adaptation and resistance.