西裤的外观保持性与面料的合理设计

Study of Durability of Trousers Appearances and Fabric Designing

西裤的外观保持性是指穿用和洗涤以后西裤的烫迹线及缝迹线的保型性、膝前抗起拱、膝后抗横向折痕、外表面抗起毛起球等方面的性能,是西裤品质优劣的重要内容.本文通过实验系统地考查了毛涤西裤面料设计中经、纬纱的毛涤混比及纱线结构(如长丝纱、短纤纱、长丝与短纤的复合纱)与西裤外观保持性的关系,可供西裤面料设计乃至制服类服装面料设计时参考.

The trousers appearance contains the seaming and ironing lines,cramping resisitance of the trousers,etc.They are important aspects of the trousers qualities. In this paper,the relations between the durability of the trousers appearance and the fabric designing, such as the blending ratios and the yarn structures (staple yarn or filament or composite yarn of filament and staple fibres) of the warp and weft yarns in the fabric,have been investigated. The results can be used for the designing of trousers or suiting fabrics.