砂质海岸侵蚀研究进展

Study Progress of Sandy Coastal Erosion

地形动力学方法已成为国外海岸地形动力过程研究的主要方法,国内仍多采用传统地理学的定性、半定量的研究方法,在海岸地形和水动力之间耦合机制方面所做的研究相对较少,这是国内砂质海岸侵蚀研究需加强之处。文中首先回顾了国内外砂质海岸侵蚀的研究历程,然后从海岸地形动力过程入手,从小、中、大3个尺度介绍了国、内外砂质海岸侵蚀的研究状况。

The method of morphodynamics is a main research method of sandy coastal erosion abroad, but researches at home mainly focus on qualitative and half-quantitative analysis of traditional geography and are less familiar with the aspect of coupling mechanism between geomorphology and hydrodynamics.. This paper firstly reviews research progresses in the area of sandy coastal erosion at home and abroad, then presents current study status on sandy coastal erosion from small, middle to large scales at home and abroad starting with morphodynamic processes. Researches of small scale focus on the impacts of storms on coastal morphodynamic processes and the responses of shore and beach to storms and their coupling mechanism. The former at home and abroad concentrates on storm mechanism and forecasting methods, and the latter has been paid attention to coupling mechanism abroad, but the researches at home have not. The researches of medium scale coastal erosion include determination of the style of erosion and accumulation of beach profile, temporal and spatial changes of beach profiles and the research of equilibrium profiles. The styles of beach erosion and accumulation are an important parameter to onshore projects. Relevant research has achieved some progresses, but needs validating findings in natural environment. At present temporal and spatial changes of beach profiles are mainly through calculating and dealing with monitoring data, such as the methods of empirical eigen-function and principal component analysis, which need improving at home. Although equilibrium profile is an ideal state, but may be significant to research of sandy coasts between headlands in China. Researches of large scale sandy coastal erosion mainly focus on the relationship of sea-level change and coastal morphodynamic processes, the changes of shoreline in periods from decadal to hundreds of years, and forecasting models of shoreline change. The effect of sea-level rise on coastal erosion which needs strengthening at home has been taken seriously abroad. And with the advancement of remote sensing, instantaneously monitoring changes of shoreline is possible, which will be a more efficient method. At the same time with the advancement of understanding capacity of coastal processes, numeral models have been an important direction researching coastal processes abroad and will be possibly successful in the near future.