毛涤织物一浴染色工艺的影响因素

Research on one-bath dyeing process of wool/polyester fabric

针对羊毛、涤纶2种纤维各自的性质，研究了载体用量、分散剂用量、染色pH值、染色温度等因素对羊毛与涤纶织物的染色性能和分散染料对羊毛沾色的影响。结果表明，羊毛、涤纶体系中加入适量的载体和分散剂能减少分散染料对羊毛的沾色。通过对染色工艺的优化，确定最佳染色工艺条件：载体PEW用量3g／L，分散剂NNO用量2g／L，染色pH值4．5左右，100℃染色60min，浴比1：40。在此工艺下，染色织物的耐洗色牢度、干湿摩擦牢度都在4级左右，个别可达4—5级。

In this study, according to the characters of wool and polyester, the influence of the dosage ofcarriers and dispersant, pH value and dyeing temperature to the dye-uptake on the wool/polyester blended fabric and color stain of wool with disperse dye were studied. The results showed that the addition of proper carriers and dispersant can reduce the color stain of disperse dye to wool. Finally, the optimized dyeing condition was obtained, ie, 3 g/L of PEW （carrier）, 2 g/L NNO （dispersant）, pH value 4.5 at 100℃ for 60 min, bath ratio 1：40. Fabric dyed in this condition can obtain a four grade of both washing fastness and dry or wet rubbing fastness.