裤子力学舒适性影响因素与设计分析

Study on the influence aspects for the comfortability of the pants and its structure

探讨了影响裤子穿着舒适性的影响因素。从裤子结构的适体性、织物的延展性和裤子在穿着时的滑移等方面分析了增加裤子舒适性的设计方法。通过对裤子进行功能分区,研究了决定穿着舒适性的关键部位结构;采用人体表皮与样板对比的研究方法进行分析,提出有效改进裤子舒适性的措施为:适当的横裆放松量、底裆留出空间、后裆增加斜度、采用纵向弹力面料、增加光滑的里料以及低腰设计等。

The elements of the comfort of the pants were discussed and the design methods were studied from the fit of the structure, the stretch of the fabric and the slippage of the pants in wearing to increase the comfortability of the pants. By dividing the different parts of the pants by their function, the structure of the key parts of the pants was analysed. The method of contrasting between the superficial structure of human bodies and the pattern of the pants are applied and the measurements to develop the comfortability of the pants were proposed such as adding the proper crotch ease, taking under-crotch room, making slop back center crotch line, and using fabric with warp elastration and smooth lining, as well as the adopting lower waist band design.