基于臂部形态的西服袖结构

Sleeve structure of men′s western-style garment based on arm shape

正确的服装结构设计要基于"人体服装"体系,服装结构中最复杂的部位是"袖窿袖",这一结构部位直接影响上衣的肩袖造型和着装舒适性,牵涉到有动态要求的人体上肢和手臂。分析影响传统男西服"袖窿袖"部位的主要结构因素,研究人体臂部形态和该结构部位实现相互结合的条件。传统的人体测量项目无法准确描述上肢空间位置关系,对人体臂部测量项目进行了补充,提出人体臂部测量的新部位和新方法,并对男性人体臂部外形进行了概括分类。确定了由于人体臂部与男西服袖身结构形态不吻合而发生袖疵病的条件。应用新型结构参数,结合人体形态学,制定合理有效的结构配置方案,从而实现人体臂部形态与男西服成品袖之间的静态平衡,减少袖疵病的发生。

An accurate costume structure design is based on the ＂Human Body-Costume＂ system, the most important and complex part in men＇s garment is the design of ＂Armhole-Sleeve＂ part. This structure influences the form of Shoulder-Sleeve and wear comfortbility, as well as the mobile harmony of both human upper body and arms. The article analyses the main structural factors which influence the armhole-sleeve part in the rational men＇s garment and makes a research into arm shape of human body and conditions of how both the armhole-sleeve and the ann shape well cooperate each other. Traditional body measuring can not accurately express the upper body spatial position relationship, however, this article makes an amendment to the arm measuring method. It suggests a new position and a new method to measure the arm of human body and it also generally classifies the outline of men＇s arm. It ascertains the conditions of inharmony between the arm and the structural form of sleeve in men＇s garment which leads to defects in sleeve. Through utilizing new parameters of structure in combination with the morphology of human body, the author makes a rational and effective plan to structural allocation, therefore, a static harmony between the outline of arm and the ready-made sleeve of men＇s garment has been achieved, the happening of defects in sleeve has been decreased.