束身衣结构设计及推板方法

Tight-clothing structure design and grading

对束身衣的结构设计及样板放缩的方法进行探讨,确定束身衣基础样板的结构设计原理和样板放缩的一般规则。考虑到束身衣的塑型作用,在结构设计时采用的材料都是具有高弹性的面料,根据塑型情况在围度尺寸上的取值要比人体实际围度减少10%~20%,同时束身衣的造型也要配合需要塑型的部位进行不同长度设计。束身衣的放缩是按一定的档差和规律推出其他号型。根据不同体型,可以有杯变身不变和身变杯不变2种形式放缩。束身衣整体放缩时重点考虑是围度的放缩,围度放缩是以4~6 cm为1个档差进行的,其他位置的放缩要按比例分配好放缩量,注意放缩时尺寸的合理性和精确性。

Probing into the method of tight-clothing structure design and pattern grading, the article determines the basic pattern design principle and general rules of pattern grading. Considering the shaping function in the aspect of structure design, materials used in the tight-clothing are all the fabric that with high elastic elongation. According to the shaping condition, the measurement of the circumference, compared to the actual measurement of the human body, is reduced by 10 to 20 percent. Meanwhile, the tight-clothing＇s modeling should be coordinated with the parts needed to be shaped and the different length. Tight-clothing grading is according to certain principles and grade difference, according to different figures, there can be the pattern grading of different cup with same body piece and the pattern grading of different body piece with same cup. When doing the whole grading for tight-clothing, circumference measurement should be emphasized. Circumference grading is based on 4 to 6 cm grade difference, other parts grading ease should be distributed in proportion, proper and accurate sizes should he emphasized in grading.