敦煌的胡锦与番锦

Central Asian textiles found in Dunhuang

敦煌曾是丝绸之路上的重镇,敦煌市场上所见的丝绸不仅有来自东方的中国丝绸,同时也有来自西方的中亚系统织锦。敦煌文书中出现的胡锦和番锦之名,当与西北或西域地区有关。胡锦很可能不是在胡地生产的织锦;而是中原地区模仿西方题材或是有着某些西方风格的织锦;番锦则应该是与粟特锦等相类似的中亚系统织锦。依据中亚系统织锦的基本技术特点,我们在敦煌藏经洞发现的丝绸实物中,找到9种属于中亚系统的织锦。

Dunhuang was vibrant way station on the Old Silk Road,as pivotal points along the great trade route,Mogao Grottoes and Dunhuang were sites of immense cultural,religious and material exchange.The silk sold on Dunhuang market came not only from the central plain of China but from the West and Central Asia too.Hujin and Fanjin were frequently mentioned in Dunhuang Manuscripts has much to do with popular trade between the oasis and the Western Regions.Technologically speaking,Hujin,literally barbarian brocade,probably was not originally produced by foreigners,but by Chinese following western styles or patterns of design.Fanjin,literally foreign brocade,refers to Central Asian fabrics especially Sogdian textiles.Based on technological study of Central Asian textiles,we have distinguished nine categories of foreign brocade from Central Asian textiles among the fabrics found in the Hidden Library Cave at Dunhuang.