含维羊绒柔细花呢的设计开发

Designing and development of soft cashmere fancy suiting containing vinylon

针对羊绒织物难以达到高支轻薄的问题,采用水溶性PVA纤维与羊绒伴纺的技术,对毛条混合比例、含油率,纱线捻度、织物上机紧度、退维等工艺进行了设计研究,提高了羊绒的可纺性能与织造效率。结果表明:水溶性PVA纤维所占混纺比例越高,可纺纱线密度就越低,但其所占比例过高则会造成坯布紧度及织造难度增大,退维后织物中纱线条干均匀度差,织物结构松烂;水溶性PVA纤维所占比例过小,则不易混合均匀,可纺纱线密度降低得少,达不到轻薄产品的要求。因此,设计合理的混合比例和工艺参数,注意解决有关技术问题,是保证正常生产高支轻薄羊绒羊毛产品的关键。

In order to produce lightweight cashmere and wool products of fashion with low cost and high added-value, a appropriate mixing ratio of water-soluble PVA fiber, cashmere and high-counts wool is selected, oil pick-up and moisture of blended top wool are strictly controlled, yam twist and weaving tightness are carefully designed, and the vinylon dissolution process is optimized. Mixing water-soluble PVA fiber in the process of top wool blending can increase the fiber spinnability, yam strength and weaving efficiency, and a light-weighted soft cashmere with good comfort and wearability can be produced after the PVA fiber is dissolved in finishing. Technique problems and corresponding countmeasures in development of cashmere products containing vinylon are put forward.