板栗壳天然染料对真丝织物染色性能的影响

Study on the dyeing behaviour of silk fabric with natural dyestuff from chestnut shell

将板栗壳天然染料在真丝织物上进行染色试验.选择染色温度、染料用量、染浴pH值进行正交试验.以明矾作媒染剂,讨论了媒染方法及媒染工艺.结果表明,板栗壳染料对真丝织物的优化染色工艺为:染色温度95℃、染料用量0.8 X、pH值3.4;明矾后媒染工艺:直接染色后,放入明矾媒染剂1.33 g/L、45℃媒染30 min;明矾预媒染染色工艺:明矾媒染剂5%(owf),80℃媒染30 min,浴比1∶30,然后95℃染色,染料用量为X,pH值3.4,NaCl 20 g/L.经几种工艺染色的真丝织物均具有较好的染色牢度,其中以后媒染工艺最好.

Dyeing experiments were conducted on silk fabric with natural dyestuff from chestnut shell.The optimum dyeing conditions were obtained through orthogonal experiments using dyeing temperature,concentra-tion of dyestuff solution and pH value of bath as factors.Mordant dyeing methods and technologies were dis-cussed with alum as the mordant.The results showed that the optimized silk dyeing process of natural dyestuff from chestnut shell was： dyeing temperature was 95 ℃,the dye concentration was 0.8 X and the pH value was3.4. The alum post-mordant procedure was： 1.33 g/L of alum, dyed at 45 ℃ for 30 min. The alum pre-mordant procedure was： the dyeing temperature was 95 ℃, the dye concentration was X, the pH value was 3.4 and 20 g/L of NaCl. The dyed silk fabric with the above dyeing processes all had good color fastness, and post-mordant dyeing technology was the best among them.