面料方向与斜裁排料

Direction of garment cloth and bias cut arrangement

面料方向的选择对服装成形后悬垂性的外观效果影响很大,而裙摆类服装造型设计最佳的悬垂方向是面料的斜向。在面料经向的0°到90°甚至180°区域之间,还可以细分成正斜、反斜、经斜和纬斜4种斜向,其中以45°正斜最为标准。斜裁因其纸样设计按45°斜向制版,所以在裁剪排料时将纸样的斜向部位放在面料的经向,且纸样按顺向排料。如此成形后的斜裁服装,在竖向垂直方向是面料的斜向,斜向和缝份却是面料的经向,斜向分割线呈撇字形为好。

The choice of garment cloth direction has a great effect on made garment looks. The best design of dangling direction of skirts and dresses type of garments is taking bias direction of the garment cloth. Regarding bias direction of garment cloth turned from 0° to 90° even 180°, it can be further divided into obverse bias, reverse bias, warp bias and weft bias, and among them 45° obverse bias is the most standard. Because the paper model of the bias cut is made according to 45° bias, the cut and arrangement only need to put the paper model bias on the warp direction of the cloth one after another. The vertical direction of the garment made in this way is the bias direction of the garment cloth while the bias and seams are on the warp direction of the garment cloth, with the dividing lines in bias direction.