纯毛织物抗皱整理工艺方法

Methods for wrinkle-resistant finishing of pure wool fabrics

由于羊毛纤维本身的化学组成和形态结构特征,使得纯毛织物在服用中极易起皱变形,缺乏可机洗性。文章探讨了纯毛织物的起皱原因与抗皱机理,综述了纯毛织物的乙二醛树脂、聚氨酯树脂、有机硅树脂、氯化钙、硝酸钙等几种新型无甲醛抗皱方法;分析了化学整理防皱、物理整理防皱、生物整理防皱、复合整理防皱的整理原理、工艺流程、整理后对织物各性能的影响及纯毛织物防皱整理今后的发展趋势。

Pure wool fabrics have the characters of elegant style and wearing comfort, as the fiber itself, the chemical composition and structural characteristics, making pure wool fabrics get wrinkled easily during wearing, and lack of machine washable. In this paper, both the reasons causing wrinkles and the principle of wrinkle resistance are introduced, primary methods for formaldehyde-free wrinkle-resistant finishing of wool fabrics are summarized, for example glyoxal resin, polyurethane resin, silicone resin, calcium chloride, calcium nitrate, and so on. The principle, process, and the result of chemical finishing, physical treatment, biological treatment and compound treatment are analysis. The development trend of wrinkle resistance is also analysis.