丝/Optim纤维混纺织物风格的统计分析

A statistic analysis on style of silk/Optim fiber blended fabric

采用绢丝作为经纱,羊毛、羊绒、绢丝、羊毛/绢丝、羊绒/Optim纤维、Optim纤维/绢丝/羊毛、Optim纤维/绢丝/羊绒混纺纱线作为纬纱,试制了具有丝绒、丝毛风格特性的一系列样品,采用FAST织物风格仪等测试触觉风格和视觉风格的性能指标。运用多元线性回归、方差分析和聚类分析等方法对测试结果进行了统计分析,探讨了织物中绢丝、羊绒、Optim纤维及羊毛含量与织物风格特性之间的关系。结果表明,Optim纤维含量对织物厚度、织物经纬向弯曲长度、织物悬垂性等均有较大的影响,Optim纤维能在一定范围内代替羊绒而不影响丝绒类织物的风格。

A series of fabrics with styles of silk/cashmere and silk/wool textiles were produced with spun silk as warp and wool, cashmere, spun silk, silk/wool, eashmere/Optim, Optim/spun silk/wool, Optirrdspun silk/ cashmere as filling. The fabric performance of both fabric hand and visual style were tested with instruments including FAST system. The testing results were statistically analyzed with Multivariate Linear Regression Analysis, Variance Analysis, and Cluster Analysis, and the relation between the fabric style characteristics and the percentage contents of silk, eashmere, Optim and wool fibers in the fabrics were discussed. The results showed that the percentage content of Optim fiber in the fabrics has important effect on the fabric thickness, anti-bending properties, fabric drape and etc. At the same time, Optim fiber can replace cashmere fiber in a definite range without the style variance of the silk/cashmere fabric.