男西服肩袖造型分析

Analysis on the Factors Influencing Shoulder and Sleeve Solid Moulds for Man’s Suits

本文探讨影响肩袖造型的结构因素,进行了大量结构图参数与对应的成品参数测量,建立男西服肩部几何模型,对不同年代的西服肩部立体形态进行分类。课题深入到影响肩袖造型的不可见元素——袖山衬料,分析袖山填充材料的结构外形和结构配置数据,通过实验验证不同结构形态的袖山衬料(不同曲率)对成品西服袖山部位形态的影响,得出袖山形态与袖山衬料结构间的相互关系。通过掌握结构参数与成品几何形态间的关系控制肩袖部位造型,为服装生产提供理论依据。

This paper studies the structural factors influencing the soild moulds of shoulders and sleeves, shape changing in sleeve volume. It systematically analyses the invisible element--lining material of sleeve caps, which can influence the shapes of shoulders and sleeves, including shapes of stuff and configurative data. It systematically analyses the invisible element--lining material of sleeve caps, which can influence the shapes of shoulders and sleeves, including shapes of stuff and configurative data. The experiments also verify that lining material of sleeve caps (with different curvatures) can influence their volume and shape. The paper has concluded descriptively and quantitatively that there is the correlativity between the volume of sleeve caps and structural shapes of lining material. This law can be used to control sleeve moulds and supply the standarized structural configuration schemes for industrilized garment production.