满族服饰文化的变迁(下)

Dress Culture Evolution of Manchu Nationality(the Last Part)

在收集大量历史文献和进行广泛田野调查的基础上,运用历史文献研究法、民族学实地调查法、多学科综合研究法,从满族先祖服饰到金女真服饰,从清代满族服饰至民国服饰以及近现代满族服饰的发展变迁做一历时性的梳理和文化变迁的研究;总结出满族服饰的发生、发展与流变是建立在"实用与审美的结合""符号象征的统一""多元一体与文化自觉""继承与发展、创新与融合"这四个具有规律性的理论平台之上的。

On the basis of collection of a huge amount of historical literature and extensive field investigation,the dress culture evolution was explored with methods of literature analysis,field survey and multi-subject synthesis.From the ancestor of the Manchu nationality to the Nuzhen nationality of the Jin Dynasty,from the Manchu nationality in the Qing Dynasty to them in the time of the Republic of China and then to contemporary China,the development of the Manchu＇s dress and the change of the dress culture were investigated on a time sequence.It is summarized that the creation,development and change are based on four theoretical platforms including the combination of practicality and aesthetics,the unity of mark and symbol,the multi-variance integration and cultural consciousness,and the fusion of inherit,development and innovation.