羊毛绢丝花呢的后整理实践

Finishing practice about fancy worsted fabric made of wool and mova silk

对羊毛绢丝花呢织物的后整理工艺进行了详细描述,分析了各工序的影响因素及其工艺参数。由于纬纱中使用了绢丝,为了避免使它失去弹性,质量变差和被擦伤,不需要进行单独洗呢,经过不断尝试采取了洗煮联合的工艺;为了赋予织物丰富柔软的手感,在第2次烘呢时进行了柔软处理;为了使织物更滑爽和有身骨,在罐蒸时蒸汽采取由外向内的流动方向;通过烫蒸来弥补罐蒸后比较板的缺陷,充分体现此面料薄、轻的特点。织物经整理后弹性、光泽、手感俱佳,是制作西装、时装、衬衣等的上佳面料。

By analyzing influence factor and technological parameters of each process,finishing process about fancy worsted fabric made of wool and mova silk is introduced in detail.In order to protect mova silk as weft yarn losing elasticity and being scratched,the combination process of braying and crabbing is adopted after a great deal of testing.Softening is introduced during the second drying process for endowing fabric with soft handle.In order to make fabric have smooth and firm feel,steam direction from outer to inner is adopted during full decating process.Blown finishing is used after full decating,in order to make up for the stiff style which is made in full decating process,and to embody thin and light characteristics of this fabric.After finishing,this fancy worsted fabric has excellent elasticity,bright luster,good handle,and can be better fabric for business suit,fashionable dress,shirt,and so on.