紫草在柞丝绸织物染色中的应用

Application of shikonin on dyeing tussah fabric

对紫草用于柞蚕丝织物的染色性能进行了探讨。用乙醇提取紫草色素,选取染液体积分数、pH值、温度和时间4个因素,通过正交试验及单因素分析试验,优化出紫草上染柞蚕丝织物的最佳工艺条件为:浴比1∶40,染液体积分数8%,pH 6,温度80℃,时间60 min。通过不同媒染剂(Al3+、Fe2+、Cu2+)媒染处理,得到不同颜色的织物。通过对染色织物耐水洗及耐摩擦色牢度的检测得出,紫草上染柞蚕丝织物色牢度优良,直接染色和媒染均达到3级以上。

The dyeing properly of shikonin used for dyeing tussah fabric was discussed. After extracted shikonin with ethanol, volume of dye, pH, temperature and time were studied and the optimum condition for dyeing tussah fabric with shikonin was obtained by the orthogonal and single factor experiments. The process condition was as follows： liquor ratio 1 ： 40; volume fraction of dye 8%; pH 6; temperature 80℃; time 60 min. The different color of lussah fabric was gained with different mordants such as Al^3＋, Fe^2＋, Cu^2＋. The fastness to washing and to rubbing showed that the level of direct dyed and mordant dyed samples was more than three.